To anyone wondering why go through the hassle replicating the jpg settings. You can do this for any in camera settings despite the dartable website suggesting you use the bright camera setting. I did this around the house with good results. Blown highlights, underexposed blackness, colours, trees, people blurry photos sharp etc. To avoid hassle take a bunch of landscape format images that contain as much range as you can. Or read it at github hereįollow the instructions for dt-curve-tool-helper and load the settings into darktable using the output of the tool. Then go into the the tools/basecurve subfolder of the unzipped darktable directory and open the README.md file. This tool got me very close to perfectly replicating the jpgs.ĭownload the dartable source from the darktable github (download zip) link on the right hand side. The software is part of the source distribution of darktable but not always packaged by distro maintainers. It allows you to create a basecurve from a bunch of RAW jpeg pairs. Personally I don't like applying lots of Noise Reduction (would prefer grain to blotchiness !). For example if WB doesn't look right, I find best to tackle that first and usually I will sharpen early on. I should point out that not necessarily in that order. * WB settings (sometimes one of the other Darktable presets do a better job) * local contrast (great where you don't want to blow highlights / shadows) * Colour saturation + contrast (under colour / contrast I think it is) * Shadow / highlight correction (Darktable does a great job here) * Sharpening (default is super conservative and really needs increasing). Some of the Darktable settings I most commonly apply and I like the look of (and this is always going to be subjective) are: Pretty soon I was getting images I liked better than the camera JPG files. However a change finally happened when I gave up trying to match in camera JPG and just kept playing with Darktable settings until I got images I liked the look of. Unfortunately default Darktable settings render quite different images to camera processor. I was quite discouraged at first and no amount of fiddling seemed to get images that looked like the in camera JPG files.
Ralf, I had a very similar experience to you.
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